Kanpai sushi is a small, 40 seat restaurant on Lytton avenue, one block away from Palo Alto’s bustling university avenue. The location of Kanpai is both a blessing and a curse, although lytton lacks the foot traffic of University, it offers less expensive retail locations and a more intimate setting than the crowded main drag.
Opened in late 2006, kanpai is relatively new to the palo alto sushi scene. Within a few hundred yards, it competes with sushi ya, sushi tomo, and miyake. But superficially, kanpai stands out from its neighboring competitors. The restaurant is elegantly decorated with dark wood flooring and matching sushi counter, petite hanging lights, and an impressive sushi bar. Kanpai’s décor gives the restaurant an intimate, calming aura – much different from the hectic, utilitarian design of other university avenue sushi joints.
It always surprises me how much money restaurants spend on interior design and planning, while service is expected to just fall into
place. Kanpai is guilty of this trend; the restaurant’s service is inconsistent, inefficient, and ultimately very frustrating.
Although kanpai is small, its servers seem to always be very busy and inattentive. Even getting seated was confusing – one waiter told us to wait for 5 to 10 minutes when there were several open tables that were fully set. After waiting a couple of minutes, a different waiter greeted us again – clearly oblivious to our previous instructions – and sat us at one of the open tables.
After being seated, reading our menus for several minutes, then sitting with our menus closed for another ten minutes, our order was finally taken. Slow, slow, slow. Our waiter was also not very helpful with suggestions, particularly disappointing since kanpai’s chefs have the ability and talent to really shine with daily specials.
Additionally, our tea was watered down and only lukewarm. You could tell that the tea leaves had been left to sit in the teapot for several rounds of refills. This is standard fare at Korean or Chinese owned Japanese restaurants, but kanpai is Japanese owned – they should train their workers to have more respect for tea service.
With that said, the timing of food was actually not bad. Our drinks were refilled in a timely fashion, including new beers, tea and soft drinks. Our appetizers and entrees also appeared on time and in order. Clearly, the servers cared about our well being and our dining experience – they simply lacked the training and organization to be successful.
I have been to kanpai several times, and to be honest, the food never really impresses me. To be clear, the fish Is usually fresh (although my aji had a troubling odor) and the rolls are nicely decorated. But that is the status quo for any sushi restaurant.
Kanpai lacks the exotic fishes, daily specials, and innovative rolls that make places such as zushi puzzle and sushi sams stand out. In fact, kanpai’s sushi selection was quite limited - and the waiter explained that ’specials’ are only available with the omakase.
Kanpai does attempt to offer more of a fusion style menu with items like lamb chops, grilled mushrooms, poke, and other small dishes. But these items are unremarkable, and appear to be nothing more than a half-baked attempt to differentiate the restaurant from pureplay sushi competitors than an actual expression of culinary creativity. I have tried most of these dishes in my various visits to kanpai, and I’ve always been disappointed.
For the best experience, I would sit at the bar during lunch – ideally during a non-Friday lunch when the restaurant is not as busy. In this environment, kanpai’s servers are less likely to be busy, and you will have the opportunity to speak with the chefs. In my first visit, I had a good conversation with the chef (whose name I forgot unfortunately), who also founded Naomi sushi in redwood city. Although the same menu limitations applied at the sushi bar, the chef did go out of his way to make me a seared toro with garlic sauce - a nice touch that underscores the ability of kanpai to be a great restaurant.
However, kanpai stands out as being excruciatingly mediocre. The restaurant ranks high in terms of décor and ambience, but service is below average, and food, at best, is slightly above average. It is a nice environment for dates, or even adult family dinners. But I believe that sushi lovers will leave mostly disappointed. Kanpai is also quite expensive. Pricing for the restaurant is on par with upscale sushi restaurants – if only kanpai’s service and food could live up to those expectations.
Kanpai Sushi
330 Lytton Ave
Palo Alto, CA, 94301
(650) 325-2696